Pinning the Hellcat

[ARCangel]

So the Hellcat that comes with the CJC Sectorial Box is an amazing pose. There's only one issue I'm having with her, and that's how to pin or fix her to the base. I'm going to give you my whole process for a normal model and then you can tell me where you think I can change a few things for her.

1. Fill the base in with milliput
2. Paint glue onto the top and cover in basing grit
3. Paint watered down glue over that to harden/seal it
4. Lift the disc of glue and grit off of the base
5. Drill my pin hole for pinned models
6. CA glue the disc back to the base and pierce it where the pin hole is for later
7. Affix the soaked and cleaned model to the base by way of the pin hole

What would you do for her? The way her foot is doesn't feel like it will hold a pin well, but I also don't want to cut the hole for the tab because that upsets my whole process.

[Mob of Blondes]

Cut the tab down to a peg? jherazob must be on holidays, he should had been the first to suggest it, with link to the childish tutorial.

I guess the milliput is from below, while all that "add, remove, put back" sounds like a complex dance. And watered down glue as "seal" (or in general) is not the best if you are talking about PVA, water/humidity will weaken it, try medium/varnish.

[Pierzasty]

with link to the childish tutorial

The "pegging your little men" one?

And I agree, just file the tab down to a pin and glue it in using 2-part epoxy glue.

Also, lifting/gluing back the basing stuff disc is an exercise in masochism.

[ARCangel]

If I don't do the peel up glue down bit then it just peels off when a model is glued to it.

[Section9]

stop using PVA glue for your bases, or attach model to base before applying basing materials.

[schoon]

Here's my process:

1 - cut off tab and pin tug model's foot (you could also use the "file tab down to peg" trick here)
2 - prime and paint miniature
3 - create structure of the base
4 - drill hole for pin / peg
5 - do final base layer and fit mini into it to make sure it sits right (feet should be flat or sink slightly into soft "ground")
6 - paint base
7 - glue the two together

[jherazob]

Cut the tab down to a peg? jherazob must be on holidays, he should had been the first to suggest it, with link to the childish tutorial

The "pegging your little men" one?

Hey! If i have the chance to sleep in, i take it!

Here's the link, the little peg thing is perfect for resin scenic bases, but it discusses the more standard paperclip pins method too.

I'm thinking of the idea of lifting all the basing grit off the base to pin it and can't help but thinking that you're complicating this much more than you should. You are also probably using pins too short, you're supposed to be pinning through the base, it should get almost to the other side, if it only stays attached to the basing materials it's way too short. Look at the last picture of the link, for example:


And if you're using standard slotta bases decorated (the typical grass or sand method), i've seen people let the pins extend twice that long and then bend them towards the inside, then affix that with putty and glue so that the base still sits flat on the table, that way the mini's not getting unstuck from the base any time soon.

The process Schoon described is pretty standard, you get both the mini and the base done, then join them together with the pins or pegs. Or get the mini done, stick it to the base, then do the basing so that the mini gets it's feet slightly covered by the basing materials (grass, sand, mud, whatever) and looks more integrated. Look at youtube tutorials and you'll see variations of this theme.

[ARCangel]

Ok, just to clarify...
-I am using paperclips, or where the feet are too fine, actual pins, for my pinning work.
-I am drilling all the way through the filled standard slotted bases; filled with milli-put for weight and some thing for the pin to grip.
-The peeling bit is because when I go to glue anything to the grit that has been glued to the top of the base, it lifts up wholly as a disc of grit and glue and falls off the base. I'm going to try scoring the base first to see if that helps the glue grip and not lift up, but I honestly don't mind doing the extra step, in fact I kinda like it weirdly enough.
-As for not using PVA glue, what else would you suggest besides that, because all I've got is Elmers, Canopy glue for my acrylic terrain pieces, and CA glue.
-I'm definitely going to try that filing the tab method because the problem with her is that there is nowhere I can see on her feet where I could comfortably get a pin vice to drill without destroying the model.

Thanks everyone for the input, by the way

[Mob of Blondes]

-As for not using PVA glue, what else would you suggest besides that, because all I've got is Elmers, Canopy glue for my acrylic terrain pieces, and CA glue.

You also have paint, and probably varnish too. More than enough to hold sand and grass. The modeling pastes sold by art and model suppliers are just that, acrylic binder and different shaped particles.

[ARCangel]

-As for not using PVA glue, what else would you suggest besides that, because all I've got is Elmers, Canopy glue for my acrylic terrain pieces, and CA glue.

You also have paint, and probably varnish too. More than enough to hold sand and grass. The modeling pastes sold by art and model suppliers are just that, acrylic binder and different shaped particles.

I use pre-colored grit by Army Painter, so paint just seems wasteful.

[Mob of Blondes]

Varnish is transparent. More than PVA that sometimes ends whiteish, or can yellow with time.

[Section9]

-As for not using PVA glue, what else would you suggest besides that, because all I've got is Elmers, Canopy glue for my acrylic terrain pieces, and CA glue.

You also have paint, and probably varnish too. More than enough to hold sand and grass. The modeling pastes sold by art and model suppliers are just that, acrylic binder and different shaped particles.

I use pre-colored grit by Army Painter, so paint just seems wasteful.

Artist's matte medium, then.

I apply basing gels before priming so that I can remove any extra without too much trouble. That stuff doesn't come loose if it goes on top of primer!